Teaching the Sociological Imagination, Marriage and Gender to Indian College Students

I was graciously invited to guest speak to Indian undergraduate students in a survey of sociology course. They asked that I speak of the social structure of the United States.  We discussed the contributions of the famous American sociologist C. W. Mills, specifically the "sociological imagination."  His famous proposition is how "personal troubles relate to public issues" arguing that the crux of sociology lies at the intersection of individual biography and public history.   I gave a quick little research project I did a few years back where former Vice President Richard Cheney's personal decisions to reenroll in college, marry and have children coincides perfectly with the history and policies of the U.S. military draft during the Vietnam conflict. They seemed to get a kick out of that but also perplexed as to how someone who got five draft deferments managed to be the principle architect of the War in Iraq.  

After that I used the "troubles and issues" concept to compare and contrast Indian and U.S, society.  We had a very spirited debate and discussion of marriage and divorce (almost nonexistent in India) patterns between our two cultures. Most Indians (in this particular class and in general) tend to think arranged marriages are "better" and the high divorce rate in the US is an indicator of a flawed system of courtship and weak families. The American mating dance of serial monogamy and successive divorces horrifies many Indians in the same way arranged marriages horrifies many Americans.  I can totally understand the value and utility of an arranged marriage, and I'm pretty open about all styles of courtship and types of relationships around the world, but I couldn't help but to take the unpopular side (in this context) to provoke debate. In all, it was a very lighthearted discussion filled with jokes and laughter about both Indians and Americans.  Once again, I was outnumbered by the women (and I admit, ultimately outflanked), who overwhelmingly spoke in favor of the Indian family system. From what I understand, young women in India are in a bit of a "double bind" (to borrow the words of Arlie Hochshild) concerning their family roles as their husbands or potential husbands expect them to be "modern" "hip" and "original" while expecting them to fulfill traditional roles in the house and so on.  We also had a more serious discussion of resource depletion and waste of energy in "developed" countries.

Indian students have a much more reverent and respectful demeanor toward professors (and scientists), like in Korea professors are thought of as "nation builders" here and are probably more prestigious than surgeons (but not as prestigious as call center workers). Students rise when I enter the classroom and do not leave until the professor has left.  I have to admit I'm a little uncomfortable with the rising and usually motion for them to sit as soon as they stand up (I am pretty informal even by U.S. West Coast standards of higher ed.).  That said, they have no problem whatsoever arguing with the professor, and I like that.  Mills would certainly approve.

I noticed some students were entering the class late, I was later told that they changed the classroom to the only air conditioned room they have in the building.  I suspect someone told them about my sweating problem and general intolerance toward heat.  I was invited back to this particular class immediately and will be happy to do it again. 

I also spoke the a class of about 16 graduate students.  I had not been as prepared as I was anticipating they would have some things to say, but it was more difficult to get them to speak up than I thought.  All but one of them were women.  I felt bad because the one man was a Buddhist monk from the south of Cambodia and I immediately began asking him all kinds of enthusiastic questions (I really like his region of the world).  I hope it didn't make the others feel excluded.  To paraphrase "Borat" more "cultural learnings to make US and A an even more glorious of a nation."

Goa

I was desperate to get out of the city, so I made a somewhat spontaneous trip to the Goa region.  A former student (Erin, UI 2010 Anthropology) accompanied me.  Goa was a former Portuguese colony so it has a different colonial history than much of the rest of the country.  In fact, I was surprised to learn that the Portuguese did not leave Goa until more than 12 years after the British in 1961 (they were kicked out by the Indian army). While distinctly Indian cultural characteristics are here, the region has a much different feel to it than Karnataka (where I am living).  For instance, it celebrates Mardi Gras, and that is just one of 100 annual festivals celebrated with seafood and plenty of drink.  It was officially the "off season" which meant only half of the businesses were open, but almost no people... this and fresh air was exactly what I was looking for. Of course I found much more than that.  Other than the intense heat, over 30 degrees with near 100% humidity, the place seemed like a little slice of nirvana.  While it may look like a paradise, it is not entirely that.  Besides a brutal history of Portugiese colonization and Inquistions (i.e forced conversions), the region has a lot of environmental problems; the extractive industries openly flaunt environmental laws and the effects of climate change has had a severe impact on this place.  These effects are easily ascertained by an outsider.  This includes a disruption of the monsoon and dry season cycles that sustain food and spice production here.  We did visit a spice farm and stunted plants showed this effect.  

Besidses the grim details about what is happening to our fragile planet, this was just what I need though, a nice little break from the insanity of Bangalore.

This is my first glimpse of the Arabian Sea, I don't normally catch such moments on camera, but I had it with me on my initial exploratory walk.

People live in cute little huts right up along the beach side.  While this seems quaint, I couldn't help but to think of the poverty.

Dios es mi guia, the Catholic legacy is still very present on the local population.  Our driver, Mr. Paul was excellent.

I guess this is the largest Catholic cathedral in the whole of Asia.  Most of these seem the same to me, but this one was clearly unique.  I kept thinking "Inquisition."

The Portuguese Colonists seemed to like their Jesus the same way I like my T-bones... bloody and rare.  Can you imagine what some poor local Goan, who is used to worshiping a friendly looking elephant god, must have been thinking when brought before this sight by Inquisitors?

Mimicking my patron saint.

Erin poses so I can show that I am capable of appreciating international archeology while simultaneously making a keen camera shot.  I wonder if this is really what my anthropology colleagues really do all day, if so, their life is just one big field trip and I am in the wrong discipline.

Some other Hindu temple, I have to admit I'm tired of religious places (Christian and Hindu) here and want to go eat some good food and lay on the beach.  Like the rest of India, religion is everything here (land of a million gods).

Stairway to heaven?  Nope, just went up to another temple.

Another Hindu temple, I wish I could remember which one, they all start to run together after a while.  I just know they don't feed you at this one so I probably won't go back.

If you look closely at the top of the hill, there is a small Catholic church

Two girls were wanting to pose for me.

Goa has tried to preserve the statues of the colonists as they realize the value of them for tourist dollars.

One of the excusions involved a trip to a spice farm in the forest, it was really beautiful there and I was excited to learn about where all the wonderful flavors of India come from.  Of course the search of spice, to make European food more palatable, was one reason Europeans began scouring the globe.  

So crossing the street is easier in Goa, but walking the trails are littered with different hazards, including poisonous snakes.

This is a capsicum chili pepper, one of the strongest known in the world.  Police use this in their OC or "pepper spray," it is very irritating, but tiny amounts are delicious in lentils.

A palm-whiskey still. They do not have an ATF in India and even if they did, they'd be pretty easy to buy off. Had two shots with fellow American traveler, it smells horrible but goes down nice.  Buzz was immediate.

A spice plantation house.  The "farmer's wife" showed us some of the small plots of vegetables and spices, they looked stunted and she explained how strange the weather has become in recent years, with days of sunshine during the monsoons and pouring rains during what used to be the "dry season."  Humans have been interacting with the earth here for more than 4000 years and this seems to be a very punctuated change in that balance.  Climate change has disrupted the metabolism here and wreaked havoc on some indigenous sources of food. 

Walking in the spice farm and then WHAM! all of a sudden an elephant and her tender is there.  Tractors are still rare on Indian farms, this one is not for show and tell, she does some serious work here.

Inside the old fort.

These boats haul in a delicious catch

Kids net fishing around sunset

More Goa beach, with posh resort on the cape.

Just a street shot of the beach village we stayed at.  The man depicted gave me a ride down the street on the back of his bike for a few Rupies (I was dying of heat).

Old Goa

Street food!  These are battered and fried onions, with a delicious spicy chutney.

My favorite way to hydrate in India is the water of a coconut, it is also probably the cleanest water in India too.  Hindu temple in the background.

The beaches were beautiful in many places, but the amount of trash and litter would set most westerners aghast.  In the sea is the remains of a huge container ship that wrecked there 10 or more years ago.  It just sits in the serf and locals who are either brave or just desperate for cash swim out to pull off scrap metal.  The snapshot does not do justice to the size of the thing.

View south into harbor for old Portuguese fortress

Yeah, so I've totally gone "native."  Unfortunately it is back to slacks and button down shirts in the business oriented culture of Bangalore

Thank you to Erin for humoring me and taking the pictures, I'm glad to be pictured in my own blog now.  For those of you wondering, yes, I shaved my head but not because I joined a cult.  I feel much cooler and comfortable now.  A local Goan woman told me that my head reminded her of a coconut.  I wasn't sure to take offense and then she told me that bald men are thought to bring good luck, I liked that.  In other news, I have learned Metallica is coming to Bangalore in October, I can't wait!  

Ethnic Day and Buddhist Teachings

It was "ethnic day" at the University and several of my students really got into it.  Unfortunately I was teaching during the big celebration.

This is a different assembly, the students are celebrating the great leap India has made in combating illiteracy.    The figures are very impressive.  Three quarters of the population can read and write, up 11% in 10 years.  At the end of British Rule, only 1 in 10 Indians could read.  This, combined with family planing and a host of social reforms makes India well positioned to be a global leader economically and culturally for much of the 21st century.  If it could find a way to invest in better infrastructure see how it could leapfrog China in terms of dominance.

This is a view from the floor where my office is.  The big building in the background is the Accenture call center.  Bangalore is full of call centers. I had to call American Express in the US to fix an issue with my card and my call was answered in a Indian call center (talk about a post-modern moment!).  The worker and I shared a hearty laugh and talked about globalization and the sport cricket (I still don't understand).  It was the best small talk I have ever had calling a US 800 number and he gave me advice where to go and how to navigate the city.

This is the lizard that lives in my home with me, at first I thought of her as a pest and shooed her away, plugging up her entry holes, etc. She kept finding a way back. Then I realized she was eating the insects that are very common in Bangalore kitchens and homes.  We now live in symbiosis and I have named her "Maggie."

View as passenger in auto-rickshaw (tuk-tuk), I suppose everyone should ride in one at least once, they are the main way individual Indians get around (personal autos are becoming more affordable and it shows by the street congestion), they are fun too, think of a roller coster without safety inspection.  I should probably not say too much about how I hate these things, metal tubing (bottom left) is where the meter is suppose to be.  Despite laws saying all rides must be metered, this is rarely the case for foreigner, make sure you can agree on a price before you go, auto drivers are one occupational group I have no problem bargaining and arguing with and refusing (there are usually a half dozen on any given corner).  AC bus is way better and all I will take if I can help it.

Jacob invited us into his home to celebrate Onam.  This feast is to celebrate harvest in the Indian state of Kerala.  It was also the first time I was invited into an Indian home.

Over 15 food items and I stuffed myself like a pig.  I loved everything although there was some serious heat on a few items.  It is all vegetarian and I got the "vegetable sweats" (I liken to the "meat sweats" only more pleasant). 

Jack is in his own "Man vs. Food" challenge, Matt is keeping him going (look he has the vegetable sweats).

Jacob with his wife and daughter

Saturday some of us went to Buddhist temple.  Despite Buddhism having it's origins in India, and the Dali Llama in exile here, there are very few Bhuddits in India (There are three times as many Christians for comparason).  I understand that this is because of a long history of repression by various dynasties as well as cultural preferences.  I have to say that this was the most enjoyable experience I have had in quite some time in a religious place.  The monk offered some basic teachings, including equanimity of the mind, imperatives of change, and the Four Noble Truths that are foundations to Buddhist doctrine.  Also talked about suffering and craving, all basic ideas of Buddhist practice.  I did meditate a bit as my mind has become undisciplined in the past year.  I will go back for sure.  Like most spiritual places, there were no photos were allowed inside, but it was simple but tranquil there.  There was a customary Banyan tree in the courtyard.  In comparason to Hindus (and Catholics), they tend to shun ritual, elaborate houses of worship and icons (similar to Protestants).  I like that aspect and find the philosophy very appealing, I think anyone regardless of their beliefs (Atheists to Zoratherists) can learn a lot from a Buddhist monk.

A handful of quotes adorned the exterior, I did buy a couple of books on Buddhism.

On the way home, female officer cadets were practicing in the sports field.  Per cultural protocol I do not usually photo Indian women directly, but their C.O. gave me permission. Despite blatant sexism in India, women are evidently allowed to serve in the military as officers, but they are in separate units from the men.  I did not ask if they were in combat units, or if they gave orders to lower ranked men, but I don't think so.  It was a big contrast to the US Navy ROTC who drill outside my UI office in gender mixed units, but reminded me a bit of that.  Obviously the US Navy is hardly the place where women have found equality, but the military is an important institution in shaping collective sentiments.  The military in the US was a key institution that catalyzed the civil rights movement and ultimately desegregation (was the second major US institution, after labor unions, but before baseball, to fully integrate).  Of course the US military is pretty socialist "privates, you are all equal scum!"   I may be pessimistic, but I don't see how the military could do the same for gender equality in India, but lets be hopeful that this along with an entire movement can raise the standing of women in all of Indian society.

Daily Life in the Streets

You gotta love state-sponsored graffiti

Despite old wise tails about eating street food in India, I find every simple food item an absolute taste festival. Not everything is "healthy" but it is all good.  I have not been sick yet for those wondering.

A huge diversity in modes of transport; bus, auto-rickshaw, foot, bike, motorbike and a bull.

Since Bangalorians have more spending money than the typical Indian and somewhat more open tastes, American fast-food places test-market in Bangalore.  This is an Au Bon Pain (I recognize the contraction in calling this "American"), the only "American" food I have eaten since I got here. If you are fatigued of food that burns mouth to arse, this may be the only place in India you can eat, it is the only such chain the the whole of the country and even this was much different than one you would expect in the US.  Otherwise I don't know why anyone would eat here as Indian food is so varied and delicious.

KFC is probably the most popular American food in all of Asia.  McDonalds is probably a close second, I will probably go there when my students read Ritzer's "McDonaldization," for instructional/ethonographic purposes. Taco Bell is test marketing here, although I doubt their "taco meat" has much beef in it in the US, anything "beefy" is strictly avoided here.  The billboard is advertising a paneer (an Indian cheese) "Gordita."  While I miss Mexican food so much, this is not it.  I overheard a student mention making a guacamole (all the ingredients are available here), I think I will be crashing that party.

Just more street life

I guess you could call this a "lower-middle-upper-working class" mall.  Prices were better than any Wal-Mart, and absolutely fascinating to walk around in.

Indian Cop

After three weeks, I am beginning to feel a little order to the Indian chaos.

Orwell meets some BS customer service philosophy form the 1990's

I must be the only foreigner with a bus pass in Bangalore, conductor doesn't believe it is mine until he see the Anglo name on it.  The bus here is awesome, the red ones have AC!  You can't get lost using these as long as you remember what the bus number is.  Some tourists love the auto-rickshaw, but they bother me on a lot of levels, including the pollution and overcharges.

There is a parakeet avery in the monastery next to my house, they are fun to stop and watch on my way home from work.

Jack launches a low-budget SETI program from a tree, or he may just be searching for a cell signal.  Finding extra terrestrial life seems more probable than finding a 3G signal on most days.